After finally sailing from Copenhagen to Bergen on Silversea's Silver Dawn, I learned why timing and the right approach make all the difference in Scandinavia. Norway had been on my mind for years. The dramatic landscapes, the fjords cutting through ancient mountains, the promise of something both wild and wonderfully civilized. Last August, my husband and I finally made it happen. We boarded Silversea's Silver Dawn in Copenhagen and sailed our way to Bergen, and I went with